Bolivia – Camping and Off-roading in Sud Lipez
A Region of Volcanoes and Salt Lakes With Flamingos and Vicuñas
Dec 25, 2008
To drive "La Ruta de los Joyas" – "The Road of Jewels" – in the Bolivian province of Sud Lipez, a high clearance four-wheel drive is a must. No official road exists, only an abundance of tracks leading endlessly through wash-board stretches of sand or volcanic ash, and over rocky passes. It is a beautiful drive along a multitude of coloured lakes and through an area where vicuñas are seen daily. The trip is described from south [San Pedro de Atacama, Chile] to north [Uyuni, Bolivia].
Preparations for Off-roading in South Bolivia
Stock up on everything in San Pedro de Atacama: water, food and fuel. There is nothing at all between San Pedro de Atacama and Uyuni in terms of shops or petrol stations. Laguna Verde and Laguna Colorada have hostels. Officially bush camping is not allowed within the park but there is no strict control and camping is the best way to enjoy nature's majesty.
Don't forget: warm clothing and a warm sleeping bag [it freezes at night], sunglasses, hat, sunscreen and a bathing suit for the thermal baths. Since the entire trip takes place at around 4000 metres, take precautions against altitude sickness, e.g. drink lots of water.
A Tour Through Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa
Drive up the Paso de Jama until the road sign "Accesso Bolivia" and turn left. At the border is an immigration office [fee 21 Bolivianos] and down the road is the entrance to the "Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa" [entrance fee 30 Bolivianos, valid for four days]. Customs [only relevant for those with a private vehicle] is eighty kilometres further north, just before Laguna Colorada.
The first beauty of the park is Laguna Verde, a large lake with flamingos and a thermal bath. The green color is best seen on the west side of the lake, after the sun has risen high in the sky.
Tracks lead through reddish mountains and volcanoes to Salar Chalvri; a salt lake with another thermal bath and hundreds of flamingos. Twenty-five kilometres further north are "fumaroles" – hot geysers. It's an impressive collection of burbling reddish, greenish and grayish mud and water vapor finding its way through fissures.
A wonderful spot is Laguna Colorado, coloring red when the sun is high and surrounded by white flats of salt. The sight of flamingos and llamas is stupendous. North of Laguna Colorada is the northern entrance of the park and tickets will be checked again. Eighty kilometres further north, four more picturesque salt lakes are hemmed in by mountains.
Ollaguë is a good stop to admire the smoking Ollaguë volcano, surrounded by ancient lava streams. West from here lies the border to Chile and eastward the road leads to the absolutely fabulous Salar de Uyuni. The king of the salt flats stretches 80 by 130 kilometres. It is an endless white ocean and crossing it is surreal. From here it's only a short stretch to the town of Uyuni.
Sud Lipez by Private Vehicle
The advantage of traveling by private vehicle is the freedom to stop and camp whenever and wherever. Although a gps is helpful in finding the "fumaroles" and Customs, it is no necessity. Diesel and petrol are available in San Pedro de Atacama [Chile] and Uyuni [Bolivia]; the total distance is about 450 kilometres. With luck fuel may be for sale in San Christobal, about halfway, but don't count on it. Driving at high altitude and on rough terrain brings down the mileage, so stock up plentiful.
Another option is to drive from San Pedro de Atacama to Ollaguë [border with Chile], about 220 kilometres. Ollaguë has no petrol station, the nearest is Calama [another 180 kilometres further south].
Car Rental in Chile and Bolivia
Before renting a car in Chile, check the small print to see if crossing into Bolivia is allowed. Another option is to rent a car in Uyuni / La Paz [check if crossing the border with Chile is allowed] and drive the stretch from north to south.
Organized Tours to Bolivia From San Pedro de Atacama and Uyuni
Uyuni and San Pedro de Atacama both have an abundance of travel agencies offering tours across Sud Lipez and other amazing landscapes in the area, as well as to colonial villages in the Atacama Desert. While every year thousands of people book such a trip and many have a wonderful experience, beware: prices and quality – and especially safety measures – differ widely. Accidents are not uncommon, including casualties. Distances are large and jerrycans of extra petrol are carried on the roofs – jerrycans of which the intakes are sealed by a piece of plastic to stop them from leaking [to mention just one of the hazardous aspects]. Shop around, ask other travelers about their experiences and check the complaint book at the Tourist Information in San Pedro de Atacama before signing up.
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