The Real Copacabana
The original town and beach that inspired its Brazilian counterpart
Aug 26, 2007
I'm on a beach in Bolivia: it's cold, there are no bikinis and no samba bands at all. This is the original Copacabana Beach and unlike its namesake in Brazil (which derived its name from this place), it is a sacred area.
The town of Copacabana – a three-hour bus ride from La Paz – sits on the shores of the venerated Lake Titicaca. It is from the town that you can take a boat to Isla del Sol, considered the birthplace of the Inca people.
The Incas believed the creator god Viracocha rose from the lake's waters and the founding "parents" of the Incas – Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo – were brought into being from a rock on the island.
Every year, pilgrims come to pay tribute to that rock on the island. The most sacred of these celebrations occurs around June 21 or June 22, during the solstice.
Copacabana is a small town, easy to figure out. It's full of small hotels, costing as little as $5 a night. We stayed at the Hotel Ambassador ($7) and paid $2 extra for a heater (well worth it!).
While the beach is a pleasant place for a stroll, to have a beer and snack, you can also rent pedalo boats and kayaks to venture on the water.
Most people are here to hike on Isla del Sol. It's easy to catch a boat, one leaves at 8 am and another at 10 am, from the town launch to Isla del Sol (cost: $4) where a guide will show you the sacred rock and explain the history of the island.
By the way, this highly-regarded rock is actually a not-so-spectular pile of large stones – you would miss it if someone didn't tell you. After a ½ hour or so with the guide, you are sent on a trail that spans the spine of the island.
TRAIL RISES HIGH ABOVE THE LAKE
Visitors are told to be at the town of Yumani on the other side of the island by 4:30 pm, or you're stuck (no matter, people in the village often take in visitors for the night).
By the way, some people prefer to pay a one-way fare to the island and spend a couple days exploring it. Isla del Sol has three settlements: Yumani, Challa and Challapampa. Bring your own warm sleeping bags and clothing if you want to stay overnight as accommodations tend to be rustic.
The trail down the spine of the island is fairly flat but do not be fooled, the middle of the island rises to almost 4,000 metres, so breathing can be difficult.
There's plenty of time for the less-than-fit (me being one of them!) to do the trail, which is well-marked.
While I did take several breaks along the way, I managed to get to Yumani in time for some tea and a walk down to the launch.
The trail is a beautiful hike. The path gently rises high above the lake, which has a Mediterranean quality. The sky is clear and the waters are deep turquoise. It's very peaceful and contemplative – save for my laboured breathing.
By the time you've finished the hike and gotten back on the boat, you realize just why this place is sacrosanct.
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Other places to visit in the area include the town's cathedral, known for its Moorish influences. Another religious site is the Cerro Calvario, a hill that rises to the north of the town. It's a half-hour walk up and the trail follows the stations of the cross. The top, marked by a cross, affords terrific views.
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